Hvala drugari! Svasta sam nesto uradio sto nije vredno pomena ovde, naj vise oko ogibljenja jos se estetike dohvatio nisam [emoji6] Ehhhh, ta fjr.... Zelja koja tinja, sebi rekoh da mi ta kubikaza u voznjama trenutnim nije potrebna, 90% sam po gradu, i ovih 700 je mnogo [emoji16] Napravio sam distancere guvernala po svojim potrebama, ugradio biper zmigavaca i led sijalice u farove... Sledece a kada nabavim moly mast tretman kardana i njegova provera, to gledam da poklopim sa zamenom gume zadnje, svasta nesto se mora demontirati... Jos jednom hvala, voajerisem i ja detaling naseg kolege sa viskom kubika (fjr), ceka me i to... Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

Kazu da je toplota neprijatelj ovog reglera, pa da preduzmemo nesto po tom pitanju Slicno sam na svojoj 1000f vozio, punih 11godina bez problema sa punjenjem! Ventilator velikog protoka vazduha, sa kuglicnim lezajima (od nekog amd procesora), tih i maaaale potrosnje. Za odlozeno paljenje iskoristio sam "tajmer" sa releom koji je inace namenjen farovima. 15 sekundi po startovanju agregata ukljucuje se i forsirano hladjenje, na nosac je vezana masa, od njega samo jedna zica ide "dalje". Po montazi zice zalivene silikonom koji ce mrdanje spreciti... Eto ideje drugari

Napisah druze 1000x, to su moje impresije, ocekivao sam vise od velike kubikaze i laganog rama! I mz250 ide kada se zalaufa Toliko kvalitetan ram, ogibljenje, kocnice... Prosto traze V4 agregat! Ovako, razocaranje (meni). Ovaj motor (deauville 700) nisam hteo ni probati zbog dozivljenog sa tdm900 i na insistiranje naseg drugara odavde @srbenda, pun predrasuda sedoh na Hondu. Teska, malo konja, 2 klipa! Bas sam ocekivao da ce me namuciti, ali! Nema saltovanja, petom ides od 50 do 150kmh.

Pitaju me drugari "zasto opet dva klipa" kada sam TDM900 toliko napljuvao... Ovih 680ccm se mogu u trecem stepenu prenosa voziti na 1800 obrtaja (motor od 260kg), oko 30kmh! Za razliku od impotentnog agregata kod devetstotke (tdm, oko 200kg), od te brzine po dodavanju gasa ubrzava bez cimanja i negodovanja. TDM900 se i u prvoj na tim obrtajima "buni" i trazi "pola kvacila". Eto poredjenja

Ovakav donji deo oklopa kada bih nasao Inace kaze "hladi grane i agregat", usmeri vazduh... Mada, manje vise to, svidja mi se izgled!

Ako ti ralica dosadi kupujem! Nije model koji mi se svidja ali voleo bih da upotpunim taj deo...

Samo uzivaj drug, ne kucam ja za cast vec da pomognem! Tudja sreca i mene raduje... Cek da uslikam, i moje grane evo zute, toplota je tu velika... Mada, lepo je i bez fleka [emoji6] P.s. Ipak cu kasnije slike staviti, tapatalk u nekoj maloj rezoluciji dozvoljava Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

Ne uvijaj skroz, nadji pravu meru... Gde saltuje lepo a ne drzi odvojeno kada rucicu kvacila pustis.. Kada je sajla nategnuta i kvacilo blago nategnuto brzo stradaju lamele, spali se ulje, potrosnja ogromna... Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

Inace, da napomenem zarad drugih koji citaju, ne postoji stelovanje po tudjoj slici, glavno stelovanje sajle je dole kod dekle, ovo kod rucice je "na fino" sto bi se reklo... 10mm lufta na kraju rucice je univerzala stelovanje... Nekome ce sraf gore biti skroz uvijen za tako nesto, nekome skroz odvijen (sto nije dobro, malo navoja u telu rucice)....

Drug, slusaj "vamo Problem je sto nema lufta, sraf em mnogo odvijen, em kontra matica na pogresnom mestu... P.S. Na drugoj slici deluje da si dobro uradio...

Bas javi kada probas...:D

Ugao takav.... Isto nam je, a i ako nije princip je isti. Sajla mora biti blago labava, ne nategnuta!!!!

Taj sraf druze i naspanovana sajla su problem rekao bih... Zato ti i kazem idi probaj! Sreca pa nemas "majstora" u blizini da ti naplati "zamenu" lamela...

Da ti odgovorim ovako pausalno ali verujem da ce ti pomoci, zavij sraf obelezen crvenom strelicom za jedno pola duzine prikazane na snimku... Za njim a opet do rucke zavij maticu ispod zute strelice, tako des "kontrirati" i spreciti pomeranje. Ono na snimku nije dobro, na polozaj srafa mislim, rucica takodje mora lufta imati, da bude "labava". Znaci, zavij na unutra pola ili malo vise i idi probaj

Cek da slikam kod sebe...

Zavij druze sraf do sajle kvacila, pa kontriraj velikim okruglim srafom! Verovatno si naspanovao sajlu puno!!

Ja nisam majstor ali pomoci cu koliko mogu druze, to je i poenta foruma P.S. Rucica kvacila mora lufta imati, ako si kojim slucajem odvijao sraf do sajle postoji mogucnost da si pretegao pa kvacilo bude blago nategnuto...

Nezgodacija... Vidi, kada lamele klizaju agregat odlazi u obrtaje ali ne vuce.. Kao da ga na pola kvacila vozis... Kada "uhvati" obrtaji padnu a motor povuce i tako u krug... Kada snimis sta se desava lakse cemo

Da ne klizaju tebi lamele? Zagrej masinu pa nam snimi kao se u leru "vrti"....

Nema veze drug filter vazduha sa kompresijom u cilindrima ali ooooogromnu ulogu ima u kvalitetu smese! Kada se toliko zapusi da ECU vise ne moze kompenzovati desava se bas to, ne moze preko odredjenih obtraja... Lambda dole na grani auspuha bi trebala to da primeti pa da imas na tabli upozorenje (blinkanje FI lampe) Nego, moze li se u leru zavrteti preko 6000?

I dok razgovaramo...

Imas sta proveriti i pre nego sto rezervoar podignes Svasta nesto moze biti, od loseg kontakta na TP senzoru, preko starog filtera do manjka kompresije i lose nastelovanih ventila... Muka preko interneta popraviti

Da je situacija kod mene ovim bih redosledom isao.. Prvo iscitaj greske, proceduru snimaj telefonom da lakse prebrojimo eventualne probleme ... Motor na cent. stenderu, skini sediste i centralnu plastiku ispod njega sa leve strane. Tu ti visi crveni dzek sa poklopcem, odmah do ECU-a/ ignitora/racunara kako ga ko zove. Skines taj poklopac i prespojis BRAON i ZELENU zicu. Tu pripremis telefon i pre davanja kontakta snimaj km sat, tacnije deo gde je "FI" lampa! Da brojimo eventualne greske... Zatim, proveri stanje akumulatora i njegovo punjenje. Ako nista od ovoga ne pokazuje falinku idemo dalje, pod rezervoar

Read & Reset Maintenance Indicating Light (MIL), aka Check Engine Light (CEL)Before STARTING the NT, verify the MIL light has cleared after the short self-check. If the MIL stays on after the short self check, don't start the NT or cycle the ignition switch to clear the MIL.If the MIL is present after the short self-check before starting the engine, read the MIL code by:-shifting to neutral-release clutch-lower kickstandRead MIL flashes. Long is ~1.3 seconds & counts as 10. Short is .5 second & counts as 1. If there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.If the MIL clears as normal after the self check, but the NT is hard to start & no MIL as come on, crank to start for >10 seconds & a MIL should come on. Then while the MIL is on, do the above to read the MIL flash codes.If you notice a MIL when riding, pull over and don't turn engine off. If the engine dies because of the MIL, don't turn the ignition off. Read the MIL flash codes by performing the following steps.-shifting to neutral-release clutch-lower kickstandRead MIL flashes. Long is ~1.3 seconds & counts as 10. Short is .5 second & counts as 1. If there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.How to read MIL codes stored in ECM.If you see a MIL, the code for MIL will also be stored in your ECM even if the MIL has since cleared. If you want to read the fault for a previous event when the MIL was on but it has since cleared, do this:-Ignition switch off-Remove seat and left side cover.-Remove the red cap off of the Dummy Load Connector (DLC). It's the 4 wire connector with the red cap just forward of the ECM (main computer card).-Insert a shorting wire into the Brown and Green wire's terminals of the DLC. I use a ~4" long speaker wire. Any small wire should work. Don't jam a big wire in there.-Verify engine kill switch is ON.-Turn Ignition switch ON-Read blink codes on MILIf there is more than one code, it should blink one code then the next in numerical order (not chronological order), then it continues to repeat flashing the codes.-Turn ignition switch off, remove shorting wire, replace cap & side cover & seat.How to clear the codes in the ECM.The ECM doesn't save the previous fault codes in chronological order. Because of that, it is a good idea to clear the codes & keep the register empty so that in an event of a new MIL fault code occurring there won't be other codes stored in the ECM to confuse any future troubleshooting. If you are concerned about having proof of past codes (ie ...to show a shop) I would suggest videoing your old codes flashing. To clear the codes:-Ignition switch off-Remove seat and left side cover.-Remove the red cap off of the Dummy Load Connector (DLC). It's the 4 wire connector with the red cap just forward of the ECM (main computer card).-Insert a shorting wire into the Brown and Green wire's terminals of the DLC. I use a ~4" long speaker wire. Any small wire should work.-Verify engine kill switch is ON.-Turn Ignition switch to ON.-Temporarily remove the shorting wire in the DLC plug. The MIL will have a solid yellow light for 5 seconds, reinsert the shorting wire into same Brown/Green wire terminals on the DLC during the 5 seconds.-Verify MIL goes OFF, then starts blinking. The ECM memory is now cleared. If you're unsure that the codes were cleared try reading the stored codes in the ECM from steps above.-Turn ignition switch off, remove shorting wire, replace cap & side cover & seat.MIL blink codes for the NT1 MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) Sensor Voltage high or low2 MAP Sensor performance problem7 ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor voltage high or low8 TP (Throttle Position) Sensor voltage high or low9 IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor voltage high or low11 VS (Vehicle Speed) sensor lost12 #1 injector malfunction. Will not start.13 #2 injector malfunction. Will not start.18 CMP (Cam Position) sensor lost. Will not start.19 CKP (Crank Position) sensor lost. Will not start.21 O2 sensor malfunction23 O2 sensor heater malfunction29 IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) malfunction

TPS? Umes li greske iscitati?