Novo je novo.Extra je taj KLE,bas nervozno izgleda.Inace,instrument tabla mi se veoma svidja.Prosta,pregledna,bez mnogo napucavanja...Sa srecom da se vozikas i da te sluzi dugo,dugo...

Meni je nekako i dalje nespojivo 2,5 promila i 11h pre podne...Ili sam ja zestoko zaostao...Sva sreca pa je prosao sa ovakvim (laksim) povredama...A brzina uopste nije bila mala,pa je sigurno i udes bio kataklizma...

Sto,hleb vise boli ;D? Ma,mi smo takav narod (svaka cast izuzecima) koji bas i ne razume reci,pogotovu ne lepe,sve dok ne dobije takve batine...

Taj dok se jednom posteno ne "izuje iz patika",nece da shvati ni sta je motor,ni koliko znaci oprema,ni kako se vozi R motor,ni koliko on ne zna da ga vozi...Samo bih zeleo da posle "tog" pada bude u stanju da nastavi da vozi,samo da zguli kozu malo...

Ja taman hteo da predlozim CBR 600F (koji je,po meni,bolji od ove "konkurencije"),ali me je neko vec pretekao...Za malo vecu cifru imas YZF 600R Thundercat (ipak,cifra je veca).A ja bih (kad bih uzimao za sebe),uzeo ili CBR ili Suzanu GSX-R 750,negde '92.,'93. godiste.Inace,pogledaj VFR u oglasima (ne potenciram,samo dajem predlog...).

Za takve voznje bolje yuri neki enduro,nego maxi...Kao sto neko rece-nije nemoguce,ali nece biti ni malo prijanto na 180 ili 250ccm...

Ja sam trenutno na 4 tocka,ali svako ko dolazi u moj kraj je dobrodosao! Nemanja Adamovic - Cena 064/272-5509 ul. 9 Jugovica 4/13,naselje Novi gradski centar (NGC) 19210 Bor. Pozdrav!

E,ne znam shta ima u start spreju,ali je nesto stvarno blesavo!Ja sam jednom tako vozio traktorche do majstora - cevchicu na filter,i voziiiiii !

Kod mene isto sve vishe motora,ali touring i chopper-a,vozi se sa kacigom,a vlasnici automobila izvrcu svoje ljubimce na krovove (bukvalno)...Ne znam sta se desava!Ni jedan pad motorom - 1000 udesa kolima. Evo,bas pre neki dan moj mali komsha doterao Suzuki RGR 125ccm.Decko ima 15 god. i crnogorsko drzavljanstvo,tako da niti ima uslove,a ni papire da polaze za A.Ali je krajnje korektan i prema sebi,i prema drugima.Nosi kacigu,ne vozi brzo,i vozi kad ima i gde ima najmanje guzve.Nije mu cilj da bude vidjen,vec da vozi...

Jedna je legenda... a to nije Strom. :wink: najzli E,ako si im rekao ! Chestitam na motorchetu.Da te dobro sluzi...TeDeMe je opaka mashina...

Kao bioskop!!!! :roll: :skuter: Axaxaxaxa :mrgreen: ! Ja sam 188/95 R19 ,pa izgledam smeshno i na GPZ 500,R6...

Sportski (ili bar oni sto lice na sportske) automobili sa zatamnjenim staklima (jos ako imaju male ili 4-oro cifrene table,a tek imena...) i Kosovari (NP,PR...).Nazalost,sve iz iskustva... Prem da su ovi sa Kosova prica za sebe...Ponasaju se kao da su osvojili svet...

Kol'ko li mu je dupe,a tek glava,kad mu staje mahina od 1400 ccm ? Shalamala. A da je veliki,e vala jeste...I dobar je.I jak je.I ono najvaznije - nov je! Neka mu iz tog istog dupeta i u tu istu glavu dodje pamet,pa polako s njim,i da se slatko navoza.

Ne znam,ali za 5k jura moze da se uzme izuzetan polovnjak...A ja sam takav da bih pre uzeo nesto polovno,provereno,sto vec ima neku poduzu reputaciju (ne aludiram da su er6-n ili hyusong losi,ali...),recimo taj VFR800 ili nesto slicno,sve zavisi od ukusa i od toga "sta i u kakvom stanju naleti"...

Chestitam na motorche!

E,pa sad je provrio.Pumpa definitivno radi.A iduci put kacigu na glavu.Zelim mu brz oporavak...

Moj glas ide za neki enduro ili manju kubikazu. Ako ne,onda za ZZR ( ali bih ti preporucio da u toj klasi pogledas i HONDA-u VF500F2 ).

Da se ima para u dzepu,ispod mene bi se kotrljao jedan primerak V-Rod VRSCA,u mat crnoj boji.Za sada mogu jedino da mashtam...

Auh,dje me nadje... Izuzetna makina. Da se lepo navozas ( a da ti malo troshi ). Pozdrav.

Ti nisi normalan,keve mi moje Nevenke!Pa gde to ima da se na belo-plavo-crveni motor stavlja CRN kofer??!?!?Pod hitno da ga ofarbas u boju motora !

Oglas (nije moj,ne znam ni ciji je,nashao na netu): Honda VTR Fire Storm, 1997 god., 1000 ccm, presao 25.000 km, cena 4800 €...

HONDA-in DOHC V-Twin. To je dovoljo... A evo i ostalih podataka: Transmission 6 speed Carburettors 48mm slanted flat slide CD-type x 2 Ignition Computer controlled digital transistorised with electronic advance Wheel base 1430mm Seat height 810mm Ground clearance 135mm Fuel capacity 19 litres Front tyre 120/70 Rear tyre 180/55 Dry weight 193kg Spark plug standard DPR9EVX-9 (NGK) I jednog kaceg textica vlasnika doticnog i nekih njegovih "iskustava": The biggest change for the VTR1000F was in the 2001 model, where a larger tank and new dash were fitted. The old 16 litre tank welcomed an extra 3 litres, making the capacity 19 litres. I was particularly happy about this as one of my common rides is about 250km. I probably could have done it, but not with the gas on. The new dash is stylish but useful at the same time. A white tacho with bright red dial partly covers the speedo. The clock display remains on even when the key is not in the ignition which is handy. I've found that you still have plenty of fuel left when the fuel bar only shows 2 bars but it goes from 6 bars to 2 very quickly. The 0 on the speedo dial starts back at about 4 o'clock and 100kms is at 6 o'clock so when you're doing 100kms/hr it looks like you're only just beginning... The only real difference in a 2001 and 2002 model is the change of colours. But even this is minor. The 2002 range replaces the dark blue of 2001 to a deep sky blue. Wheelies are an excellent way make you feel like you are impressing everyone. Before attempting to be a hero, keep in mind that the memory of a failed stunt far outlasts the memory of a winner. Some guys are part timers, and some go out perfecting wheelie-martyrdom until their gearboxes become dust. Some seem to be born with it and some don't, but for most of us the amount of skill and dedication is directly proportional to the risk factor of wrecking your bike and yourself - so be warned. In my opinion there are two kinds of wheelies: power wheelies and balanced wheelies. Power Wheelies When doing power wheelies, the front wheel will start to drop as soon as the speed of the bike exceeds the effective rev range. Power wheelies are a good way to learn because you can practise lofting the front wheel and get instant gratification as a beginner. At least one advantage of the bike slowly running out of rev range is that the front wheel is closer to the ground by the time you are ready to land, so you won't slam the front end down as hard. I recommend getting the knack for good power wheelies in first or second gear before attempting a balanced gear-change wheelie - even if you hold it up for 20 metres this is a good start and will help build your feel and confidence. I'd learn in first gear on most bikes, but for powerful bikes such as 1000s above, you might try it in second as first gear could be too aggressive. However, you'll also need more initial speed and rev range for second gear. For a 600cc bike, you'de be looking at around 6000-8000RPM and for a 900cc above, about 4000-6000RPM in first gear. Getting it Up Some guys use clutch and some don't. I don't use any clutch but some will argue that it is easier and more predictable to do so. For the "dipping" the clutch method, obtain the right speed and approximate rev range (you'll need to figure this out yourself depending on your bike - if you can't then you shouldn't be attempting wheelies). The next sequence of events all happen very quickly. Reduce your body weight from the front of the bike and with slightly lower mid range revs, squeeze the clutch, then increase your revs while releasing ("dumping") the lever completely. Give the bars a gentle tug and the front should go up. If it doesn't, you may need to alter the revs and timing of your clutch action. Also, beginners tend to lean forward too much in anticipation of lofting too high. You should practise this until you are confident of getting a reasonable height off the ground each time. Lofting the front wheel without clutch is similar except you are relying more on the transferral of weight and power. This means you must get your body weight off the front end and be able to dial in the required amount of throttle at the same time. This is not necessarily more difficult but requires a close understanding of your bikes effective rev range. This is the key. Also, particularly on less powerful bikes, you can preload the front suspension with your body weight just before pulling back on the reigns. When the front suspension rebounds, it will assist slightly in pushing the front wheel against gravity. Balanced Wheelies A balanced wheelie is quite simply a wheelie where the rider is able to control the amount of speed, acceleration and balance in order to maintain a constant balance point. With practise you will know how far to lift the front wheel in order to have enough height to change gears. To start with you may find the balance point but waver each side of it. After time you can strive to achieve a motionless wheelie. The front will naturally waver more when you are changing gears because you don't want too much power dialled in when making clutchless gear changes. I believe that you should aim to get through as many of the lower gears as you can as quickly as possible. On bikes with grunty bottom ends, I find it easiest to make at least one gear change just before you obtain the balance point, then you can last longer before running out of revs. This is particularly useful if you are still learning and can only get through one or two gears. Once you can master limitless gear changes on the back wheel, you certainly don't need to read any more of this. ...I jos jednog "zvanicnijeg" texta: American Honda recently threw a coming out party for the all-new VTR1000F Super Hawk, inviting the U.S. moto-press to the bash. The event's backdrop was the picturesque wine country of Temecula, California, and its maze of gnarly, tight and twisting back roads proved the perfect venue to show off, as one Honda engineer put it, the Super Hawk's "lively personality." And lively it is, too. With the VTR, Honda feels they've "grabbed the essence of what Americans want in a big, sporting V-twin. The distinctive sound and feel that makes a V-twin seem alive." A spokesman for Honda's R&D department said their target for the Super Hawk was light weight, light steering, and strong low- to mid-range power and torque. Sound like a certain lusty Italian bike we know? The Super Hawk's project leader, Naoyuki Saito, stated Honda wanted to create a new type of twin-cylinder sports package that could rival the Ducati's level of performance while maintaining Japanese quality and practicality. Our first impression was that the VTR seemed easier to ride fast than a 916, but soon realized this was not a race replica. Indeed, Honda claims the Super Hawk was never intended as a racing platform. Rather, they deemed it more of a real-world, all-around sporting motorcycle like Honda's own VFR750, but with the robust power delivery only a large displacement V-twin can provide. Honda admitted to being caught off guard by Suzuki's introduction of their TL1000 90-degree V-twin, and were even more surprised by their rapid release of the bike to dealers. Honda quickly moved the Super Hawk's press launch up by several weeks, and production is set to hit dealers by April. Expected retail price of the bike should be around $8900, and Honda plans to keep production numbers low, with each dealer expected to receive only two VTR's over the next 12 months The Super Hawk's unusual frame design contributes greatly to helping meet Honda's original design goals of light weight and responsive steering. Honda engineers described the VTR's chassis as being "lively" and fine tuned, with six strategically-placed mounting points for an engine that also acts as a stressed member for increased rigidity and lighter weight. Centralized engine placement combines with a slightly tall caster angle to help keep front-end handling light. The "pivotless" twin-spar frame was designed around the VTR's OEM radial tires, which use a softer construction than that found on other sporting machines. Mounting different treads, according to Honda, will upset the "tuned" balance of the Super Hawk's chassis. The side-mounted dual radiators of the Super Hawk produce the same cooling area as a single front-mounted radiator, but according to Honda engineers the VTR does not have the "dead spots" you find in a radiator mounted in the traditional location behind the front forks, which can result in as much as a 20 percent loss of cooling efficiency. The VTR's design utilizes the low pressure created by wind passing over the outer surface of the fairing to draw air through from the high pressure zone inside. At low speeds, a large right-side fan blows air over that radiator for cooling. We didn't get to spend much time with the VTR1000, but an afternoon of circling Willow Springs Raceway's 2.5-mile road course lead us to the conclusion that Honda is correct -- this is not a track-oriented design. "Honda personnel may have described this bike as having a lively personality," said Associate Editor Gord Mounce after a short track session on the VTR. "But like a blind date with a 'great personality' you don't want to take her dancing." Suspension rates that performed so well on the backroads were too soft for racetrack duty. In the VTR's defense we didn't have time to change springs or oil, which would have helped. A bigger hurdle for those thinking of racing VTRs is the lack of ground clearance. Rearset pegs and a tighter exhaust pipe will be necessary purchases. Where the VTR really shines is in the broad spread of power available from its torquey motor. Speed is deceiving on Honda's V-twin because power builds steadily with no major peaks or valleys. Such a wide powerband allows strong corner exits, with less sliding of the rear tire than on an inline four with its peaky power. Although the VTR felt slow on the straights due to this flat power curve, we found ourselves smoking by 600s on Willow's front straight. We certainly plan on getting the Super Hawk back for a longer, more involved test soon. Only next time we hope to also have Suzuki's TL1000S, and maybe even a Ducati 916 thrown in for good measure (and what a yardstick to measure by...). Watch for the ultimate sporting twin-cylinder performance battle next month in Motorcycle Online. Stand back and let the competition begin! Iskreno,ako je motor OK,ja se tu ne bih mnogo razmishljao... Pozdrav.

TransAlp-a,i ne razmisljaj...A ako ti se enduro od 600ccm ipak cini mnogo(a ja ipak mislim da nije),onda pogledaj neki Virago,ali jaci od 125ccm,Yamahy RS125,Hondu CM125 ili nesto kao onaj Cehov Keeway enduro.Uostalom,provrshljaj malo po forumu,imas neke slichne teme sa brdom postova... Pozdrav.

Sve najbolje s novo motorche i da se navozate puno mlogo ...

Xe,a kad smo ja i Borko87 sa ovog foruma skidali njegov far sa CM125...To je bio dozivljaj!Odnosno,mi smo ga lagano skinuli i zavrsili sa njim sve sta treba,ali je nastao problem prilikom vracanja: pojavilo se X kablova koje je trebalo negde "sabiti pod pritiskom",i Y konektora od kojih svaki u svaki pashe...A dok smo povezali migavce,mislim da nam je brada porasla.E,a onda je bilo malo [-o< ,i :misli: i nekako je sve doslo na svoje mesto.Jedva! Moj savet - pazi sta radis sa tim "far kablovima"!