http://www.yamaha-motor.co.uk/products/information/events/xt660r_test_ride.jsp?

Pozdrav Milose! Pa verovatno A. RS125? ...

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Cestitam! EXTRA! Jedva cekam da ga vidim kad zavrsis! Pozdrav!

Dododdodo!

U svakom sluchaju, bolje da Èeh ponovo jaše, nego da se Jashar Ahmedovski ponovo èeše... kako god...

Bilo gde trazis antifriz za aluminijumsku masinu. Mozes cist, ali bolje radi kad je pomesan sa vodom -onako kako ti pise na flasici.

Evo, da ovako formalno cestitam: Druze Cheshe, Chestitam na Jamasi ! Dobrodoshao u club ! :pivo:

Auuuu.... Hvala bogu, pa nije strasno kako je moglo da bude... Zelimo brrrrrz oporavak!!!

11.04.2007. Stop motociklistima! http://www.adaciganlija.co.yu/vesti/vest.jsp?id=939

Danas sam uzeo broj...019, pa ako me neko vidi, nek se javi! Bas se malo ljudi prijavilo... P.S. evo kako izgleda broj:

Zavisi od doba dana, raspolozenja i nivoa koncentracije. Kad mi nije dan i kad sam sav zamisljen, vozim kao i kola. Ne guram se nigde, cekam, i nemam sta da razmisljam. Kad su velike guzve kao sad kad idem na posao, isto vozim kao i auto, ne preticem kolone niti vozim izmedju traka (samo kad svi stoje kao na gazeli, ali na semaforu kad svi stoje, polako proklizim do istog, a posto obicno vozim srednjom trakom (novi bg, radim u pinkiju), provlacim se izmedju srednje i leve. Uvece, kad su guzve manje, vozim vise kao motor Tad vec ljudi nisu toooooliko nervozni, pa vozim sa sve preticanjima raznih vrsta, i provlacim se gde god ima mesta.

Dobrodosao! Super predstavljanje!

Pozdrav Stefane! Dosao si na pravo mesto, svi ce ti rado pomoci oko izbora motora i dati dobre savete! :pivo:

Ako hoces bas specificnu kacigu, neki kompromis, allround, probaj ovako nesto: Airoh S4, cena oko 180e u katalogu

Ma definitivno treba uvesti ozbiljno polaganje za skutere. Najvise u saobracaju pazim na te klince u majcama, bez kaciga, po dvoje obavezno, voze ko nenormalni!!! Obicno mi se prilepe cim vide pravi motor, pa se vrzmaju oko mene ko kreteni. Kao, prestizu me i te fore, a ne pada mi napamet da divljam pred njima, da dajem najlosiji moguci primer deci. Juce bas idem u mek na slaviji i neki klinci mi se tako prilepe, te levo te desno... i stanem ja na pesacki kod meka, propustam ljude, a oni nece da cekaju, pa po gasu i fiju! kroz ljude, na trotoar i zamalo da se zakucaju u devojku koja je izlazila iz taksija, za milimetar! I oni stali, kao satro nadrkani nesto... a nemaju mozda 13-14 godina. Jebe mi se za njih, ali takvi sjebu nekog nevinog. A policiji ne pada na pamet da ih slucajno zaustavi... samo okrenu glavu, dok mene gledaju dal da zaustave sa full opremom dok se kuvam po gradskim guzvama i postujem propise... Mogli bi malo da rade taj svoj prosti posao, cemu sluze inace? Pa sluze da kad se nesto desi dodju na uvidjaj da bleje, ili kad im trebaju pare da te zaustave i cimaju sto nemas 14 zihernadli u kompletu za 1. pomoc.... :evil: Izvinjavam se na nervoznom postu.

Pozdravv!

Pozdrav i dobrodosao! Gde radis kao trener?

Avoiding Obstacles in a Turn 1. We always stress that the street is not a racetrack and you should hold a little in reserve while riding. Nowhere is this more important than when entering a blind turn. Good street riding practice recommends that you scan three to five seconds ahead while riding. Cornering, however, reduces your scanning distance. Rounding blind corners such as those with bushes or rock faces obscuring your view, reduces it dramatically. Although these situations are best handled by lowering your entry speed, entering a corner with a plan can help you overcome surprises that may lurk ahead. Most experienced riders have stories of strange things they have encountered in the middle of the road. It's probably only a matter of time until the same happens to you. 2. When you encounter an obstacle midcorner, you have little time to react. Immediately determine on which side of the object you plan to pass. Then, to prevent target fixation, focus your attention on your desired path of travel. If the obstruction is dirt or gravel, selecting a car's outside tire track will usually provide the cleanest line through the corner. Often your avoidance maneuver will require only a slight change of line either inside or outside of the obstacle. However, if your speed is high enough that adjusting your line in this manner will send you into the oncoming lane or off the road, you will need to brake, too. Since traction for braking is limited while cornering, you need to stand the bike up prior to applying the brakes. 3. To achieve maximum application of the brakes while swerving, steering inputs must be separated from braking or you risk losing traction. The swerving and braking maneuver happens so quickly that, while the bike may be upright when you apply the brakes, your body will still be off the center of the bike. Don't worry. Let the bike move underneath you. Don't grab the brakes; apply the brakes firmly while recognizing your bike is probably not completely upright and traction will still be limited. If your front brake locks and starts to skid, immediately release then reapply the brake. Keep your eyes focused on your intended path of travel. Looking at an obstacle or off the road will only help you become intimately acquainted with them. 4. As soon as you have slowed your bike enough to complete the turn, release the brakes and direct the bike back toward your original path of travel. Since this maneuver takes less than a second from beginning to end, practice is essential. Find a lightly traveled road with a right hand turn (to give yourself some runoff if you make a mistake) with good visibility throughout the entire turn. Using chalk or tape, mark the section of the road you want to swerve around. Starting at low speeds, swerve around an imaginary object while cornering. Once you are comfortable, gradually increase your speed until you reach the point where you need to insert braking into the swerve. You'll be glad you took the time should you ever encounter a child's stuffed animal in the middle of your line. This story originally appeared in the December 2000 issue of Sport Rider.

Vision Quest The biggest trap inexperienced motorcyclists fall into is not practicing good visual skills. This is probably the single largest cause of accidents for novice riders, yet it is also the most basic skill that forms the foundation for every control action you perform while riding. If you aren't looking where you want to go, how do you expect to get there? We see way too many riders caught up in two major traps involving visual skills: "riding the front wheel" (not looking far enough ahead of the motorcycle), and target fixation. These two traps are often interrelated; when the rider doesn't look far enough ahead and becomes surprised by an obstacle, he panics, which leads to target fixation. We can't emphasize enough how important it is to look far ahead of your bike while riding. This applies not only to riding in the canyons or on the racetrack, but to city/urban riding as well. Scanning far ahead allows you ample time to formulate a plan for navigating that particular piece of road, whether it be carving the perfect line through a curve, or preparing for and avoiding a hazardous traffic situation. This is especially crucial for novice riders, who usually require a lot more concentration and time to devise riding strategies that experienced riders can perform with little or no effort. If your riding plan is rushed, the chances are good that it will have mistakes. We have also found that looking far ahead helps novice riders overcome their initial fear of using lots of lean angle. Looking far enough ahead of your motorcycle also helps your ability to scan your peripheral vision for visual clues, whether they are hazards or turn reference points. You don't have to stare at something in order to "see" it; honing this visual skill will allow you to "hit" your turn apexes while already focusing on the next one up ahead. We see a lot of novice riders concentrating so much on trying to hit their apexes "just right," that they end up staring at them nearly to the point where they are upon them; by then, it's too late. If you're still staring at the apex 20 feet before you reach it, by the time you start looking for your next apex, you'll be upon it, and your riding plan will be rushed. Learn to hit your points without actually looking at them. A rushed riding plan can result in a common problem for novice (and expert) riders: target fixation. When riders go into panic mode, they often end up staring at the most threatening object or area up ahead. This is often either a wayward car entering your path, or the outside of a turn when you enter it a little too hot. The oft-used phrase "you go where you look" is never truer in this situation. We can practically guarantee that if you continue to stare at something you are trying to avoid, you will hit it. Although easier said than done, this is why you need to build your visual scanning techniques so that you will instinctively look beyond an approaching hazard. If a car turns into your path, immediately look for an escape route while getting on the brakes; if you exceed your comfort speed entering a corner, look at where you want to go. Staring at a hazard won't help you avoid it-look where you want to go, and you'll get there. This article was originally published in the April 2003 issue of Sport Rider.

Stop wasting time using the clutch to upshift 1. At a recent open track-riding day we attended, we were stunned to see the amount of riders who were wasting a lot of time and physical effort using the clutch to upshift. The continuous rise and gradual fall of the engine’s rpm between each shift as bikes roared by us in the pits had us wondering if there was an epidemic of slipping clutch plates that we didn’t know about. While it may be an important ritual for beginner or novice riders, using the clutch for upshifts during aggressive canyon or track riding is totally unnecessary (unless, of course, your bike has some shifting/transmission issues that prevent using this technique). In fact, there are many riding situations where it can be a nuisance and even a hindrance to quicker and smoother riding. 2. A motorcycle’s gearbox differs from your typical automobile transmission in that it can actually change gears under a small load, and only needs a slight interruption in the flow of power to accomplish an upshift. Its constant-mesh, sequential dog-engagement design means it can change gears much more readily than a typical automobile synchromesh transmission that requires an almost total stop in power flow, which is why using the clutch is necessary for upshifts in manual-transmission cars. This is why "power shifters" are so popular with motorcycle racers; by using a device that cuts ignition power momentarily while upshifting, the rider is able to keep the throttle pinned wide open, saving time and effort. 3. Basically, the technique is simple: Instead of shutting off the throttle completely and pulling in the clutch while you shift, just let off the throttle a small amount and perform the upshift in a quick, near-simultaneous movement; ignore the clutch. Don’t shut the throttle off completely, just let off enough to get the shift done. Upshifting without the clutch also gets you in the habit of performing the shift quickly and smoothly, as otherwise the weight transfer from letting off the throttle can upset the bike’s handling. Once you become accustomed to using this technique, you’ll be amazed at the time and energy saved (and you’ll probably reduce wear and tear on your clutch plates, too, judging by the clutch slip we could hear as riders at that track day tried to squeeze and release the clutch lever quick enough during each shift). 4. There are many riding situations where the physical exertion saved from not having to constantly squeeze the clutch lever during upshifts can be a huge benefit. For instance, when accelerating through a set of tight switchback turns or chicanes, your arms and hands are busy with the effort of steering the bike, and your body positioning may also prohibit being able to release your grip on the left bar to work the clutch lever. In scenarios like this, there simply isn’t the time or the wherewithal to deal with the clutch, and at the end of a long ride or track session every little bit of your energy level conserved can help you avoid making a crucial mistake. Also, the smooth riding that results from learning to shift properly will pay major dividends in added speed on the road or track.-SR By Kent Kunitsugu Sport Rider Magazine, September 2004

Evo sad dodjoh kuci, vozikao sam se da testiram spravicu, i gle cuda - lepo radi! Lanac nauljen i srecan, ulje nigde ne prska (verovatno prska u stitnik lanca ali bitno je da ne ide dalje od toga). Ja sam sipao Motul 15-50, ostao mi od zamene. Probacu razlicita ulja pa cu videti kako se ponasaju. Hvala na podrsci!

Hvala na savetu! Potrazicu to ulje!

Evo danas nadjoh malo vremena da se pozabavim ovom tematikom. Inspirisalo me je nesto sto sam video na Giuliano-vom motoru, mislim da se zove LubeMan - nema cimanja oko podmazivanja (guranje motora, naginjanje na copavu,..) - koristi se staro ulje iz motora ili bilo koje drugo, tako da imamo smanjene troskove sto se tice kupovine spreja za lanac - posto koristimo staro ulje, ne bacamo ga, a u isto vreme njime podmazujemo lanac, imamo i ekolosku stranu svega toga - lanac se cesce i bolje podmazuje, sto mu naravno produzava vek Evo detalja sta i kako sam radio... Materijal koji nam je potreban: - flashica od alkohola ili cega god, - crevo precnika 5-6-7mm, - shelnice za prichvrshcivanje Skinemo cep sa flasice i probusimo rupu kroz koju proturimo crevo. okolo stavimo malo lepka, da bi sve bilo lepo zatvoreno. Na crevu napravimo rupicu Probusimo stitnik lanca taman toliko da provucemo crevo Onda od drugog, debljeg, creva odsecemo komadic koji ce stajati horizontalno, i na njemu probusimo 3 rupe- jedna kroz koju cemo gurnuti tanje crevo, a sa druge strane 2 rupe medjusobno razmaknute toliko da iznjih ulje kaplje direktno na ringove lanca. To crevo treba zatopiti sa strana da nam ne bi tu curelo ulje. Ovaj deo sluzi kao rezervoarcic za ulje koji dozira podmazivane jednako na obe strane lanca. Gurnemo crevo u rupu ovog 'rezervoara' Ako je sve u redu, skratimo crevo za onoliko koliko nam treba, opet nabijemo 'rezervoar' na kraj i povucemo crevo tako da rezervoar dodje uz stitnik lanca iznutra, iznad lanca. Privezemo bocicu selnama tamo gde smo odredili, pricvrstimo i crevce, i to je to! Kako radi? Pre voznje; jednom rukom zatvorimo rupicu na crevu, drugom rukom stisnemo bocicu i ulje pojuri kroz crevo. Pustimo rupicu i bocu, i vazduh udje u istu, a ulje nesmetano tece u 'rezervoar' i iz njega lagano kaplje na lanac. Nase je samo da polako vozimo par minuta i to je to. Lanac se podmazuje dok ima ulja u crevu, a kad god hocemo, samo stanemo, pritisnemo bocicu, i sistem radi svoj posao! Izgleda sasavo, ali mene glava vise ne boli!

Moj ujak radi kao glavni mehanicar u KGB Motorcycles, pa javi kad budes hteo da vas povezem. Pozz!