Dobra osnova za budzenje! Uzecu ga sigurno, za ove smesne pare, pa onda srafcigercic, osiguraci, tva-tri toplomera, par zicica.....i na kraju dobijes alarm sa senzorom pokreta i visestrukom blokadom motora, i sve to za 1500 (+100, 200) din! Motor vezujem lancem uvek, pa ce ovo biti lep dodatni security fix

Dotegnutost lanca nema nikakve veze sa tim sto se motor gasi (osim ako ne govorimo o lancu begaste). Moguce je da samo treba nastelovati kvacilo jer ti ne odvaja potpuno.

O, dobrodosao! And let the forks always be with you ! :food:

U principu, mislim da je sve jako prosto: samo NA VREME paliti migavce za skretanje, a kod zaustavljanja, recimo, grupa moze da se dogovori da signal bude dva puta 'tap' kocnice, i nema problema Sve je u dogovoru pre puta i postovanju istog.

Downshifting &”Blipping” the Throttle 1. Downshifting smoothly on a sportbike, especially while braking hard from high speed, requires a definite measure of skill and dexterity. In order to avoid upsetting the bike, the engine rpm must be matched to road speed when the clutch is fully disengaged, otherwise the rear tire will momentarily "chatter" and upset the bike as the engine is forced to match road speed involuntarily. This means that the rider must "blip" the throttle to raise the engine rpm during downshifts-but he must do this while simultaneously pulling on the front brake lever to slow down. While this riding skill is obviously necessary on the racetrack, it can also pay big dividends in street-riding situations where riding smoothly is a must; for instance, any situation where you are cornering and braking at the same time. 2. The idea of blipping the throttle between downshifts can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but with a little practice, the technique can soon become second nature. First, make sure that your levers are adjusted so that they are comfortably in reach of your fingers when sitting in a normal riding position, and that your throttle is adjusted for minimal play in the cable. The front brake lever should be angled downward enough to be easily gripped with your hand in the closed throttle position. With the engine running in neutral, try blipping the throttle slightly while pulling firmly on the brake lever-note that it doesn't take much throttle movement to get the revs up. Then practice simultaneously pulling and releasing the clutch quickly when you blip the throttle (remembering to continue pulling on the brake lever as if you were slowing for a corner). 3. The next step is to practice this technique while riding in a safe area with no traffic. As you brake and begin your downshift, simply perform the same practice drill as before, but add the act of downshifting. The action of blipping the throttle and the downshift should be simultaneous and quick, and it doesn't take a whole lot of revs to match the engine to road speed; unless you're riding at racetrack aggression levels, all it will require is a slight throttle blip. With practice, you'll know just how much is necessary at various speeds. Note that mostly the palm of your hand handles the act of moving the throttle because your upper body weight is centered on your palms under braking anyway, and your fingers are busy actuating the brake and holding the bar. All it takes is a slight wrist movement to blip the throttle. You'll find this will help avoid affecting your braking action due to influencing your fingers' grip on the brake lever. 4. If you find that you still have problems with this technique, try adjusting your brake lever in so that it's easier to reach (without hindering your ability to pull the lever in for maximum braking, of course). If you still have trouble, you will have to employ the "non-blip" method many racers (such as AMA perennial front-runner Eric Bostrom) still use. This simply means the clutch is released gradually after the downshift so that the engine rpms can progressively match road speed without the rear wheel chattering. The downside is that the rider loses the added engine braking while the clutch is disengaged and the bike "freewheels," and he must compensate with the additional use of the brakes during this time. Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually. By Kent Kunitsugu

Dobrodoshao !!!

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP ONE: TRUST NO ONE Learn to rely on one person, and one person only: yourself. Be paranoid. When you see a dented, dirty or neglected car, be especially paranoid. Dents are a rolling history of mistakes, and you don't want to be involved. Dirt and neglect show disinterest, and that disinterest probably bleeds into their driving as well. Experience has taught us to watch for particular car types in addition to neglected cars. Volvo works hard to promote the safety of its cars, and that means some owners of Volvos buy them because they know they're going to be in an accident. Sure, it's an unfair generalization of Volvo owners, but it's an observation made after a decade in Los Angeles. Watch for minivans. They're usually purchased to carry the kids, so the driver is often dealing with much more than the road. Beware of high-performance cars in a hurry; a modern car can accelerate and change lanes surprisingly quickly, so give them room if they're driving aggressively. Give four-wheel drive pickups some room because (another unfair generalization) they're often driven by aggressive young men who believe that might makes right. What car types can you trust? None. This missing mirror lens blinds the driver to your presence until you are alongside and is a detail you must learn to automatically recognize and avoid as you scan traffic. URBAN GUERRILLA STEP TWO: AVOID BLIND SPOTS If one thought rules your urban riding, let it be this: Stay out of blind spots. If you can't see the driver's face in the car's mirror, that driver can't see you and you simply don't exist. Place blind-spot avoidance on top of your priority list for urban survival. Use acceleration, deceleration and lane position to "ride in the mirrors" of the cars around you. Develop a blind-spot warning buzzer that blares every time you approach a blind spot. The Highway Patrol teaches its riders to constantly move through traffic, to ride slightly (slightly!) faster than traffic and move through blind spots rather than sitting in them. Good advice. Of course, just because you're riding in the mirrors of a car doesn't mean that driver will use that mirror before changing lanes into you. Position yourself so that if the driver fails to see you in the mirror, you still aren't in danger of getting tagged. You will know when you're riding well and staying clear of blind spots because you are no longer using your horn to warn encroaching drivers of your presence; they've already seen you in the mirror, alongside or ahead. In fact, our response to "loud pipes save lives" is "get out of the blind spot." How other drivers interpret your actions has a great deal to do with urban riding skill. If this rider uses his turn signal to show his intention to make a right turn on the upcoming street, the Volkswagen driver exiting the 7-Eleven may assume the rider is pulling into the 7-Eleven and mistakenly accelerate directly into the bike's path. In this case, the rider must stay in the left side of the right lane and signal his right turn immediately before the street-and keep a close eye on the VW. URBAN GUERRILLA STEP THREE: BE DEFENSIVE, BE AGGRESSIVE Combining defensive tactics and aggressive riding will create a riding portfolio that will weather any storm. The secret is knowing when to use each of the tactics. After all, blasting aggressively down Main Street is an open invitation for trouble. Conversely, creeping slowly down Main Street invites different but still deadly trouble, putting you at the mercy of other drivers' skills-or lack thereof. Defensive riding means being aware of your space and maintaining that space by positioning yourself in surrounding traffic. Riding defensively is a way of looking at traffic to predict its effect on you, and making sure that effect is minimal. Riding aggressively is much less a way of riding than an applied technique to be exercised only occasionally. As motorcyclists, we must put ourselves in view, and sometimes that means a bit of aggressive throttle use to come up even with a driver's window. Simply put, sometimes slowing down is extremely dangerous and some aggressive acceleration or lane changing is called for. Create your own traffic destiny. Put yourself in a position with an escape route if your worst-case predictions come true. Look for traffic patterns and try to move through traffic, rather than sit within a knot of traffic. The time you become lethargic will be the time somebody parks a Suburban in your lap at 60 mph. By predicting this car's last-second freeway flop, this rider has made plenty of room for the expected mistake. Avoid passing on the right, and never pass immediately before a freeway exit, intersection or driveway; give the driver a chance to drive poorly without your involvement. Accelerate ahead or fall behind. URBAN GUERRILLA STEP FOUR: MAKE ROOM FOR OTHERS' MISTAKES In case you haven't noticed, drivers make mistakes. Dozens of them, from no turn signal to last-minute freeway exits to locked brakes at a yellow light to-well, how long a list do you need? America's current driver's training programs aren't going to correct America's drivers in the foreseeable future, so the secret is to plan on and predict the mistakes and make sure you're not affected. In other words, give 'em room to screw up. Understand this: You won't change the mistakes being made out there, but by recognizing and giving them room to happen, you won't be negatively affected by them either. There's no reason to get upset, violent, aggressive or reactionary; once you begin to make room for mistakes, it becomes almost humorous to watch the stupidity around you because you will no longer be taken by surprise or put in danger. Correct lane positioning will allow you to be seen and keep you away from danger. This rider approaches the cab in the right side of his lane so the cab driver will see him in the cab's mirrors. As the rider approaches the cab's blind spot, he moves left to gain valuable space in case of a sudden lane change. A car's blind spot varies according to the vehicle, mirror size and mirror adjustment. Anytime you're parallel to a car, truck or van, you're in the most dangerous spot on the road. Learn to move through this Death Spot aggressively; don't ride in a blind spot, even for a few seconds. URBAN GUERRILLA STEP FIVE: SLOW DOWN IN TOWN Speed itself doesn't kill, but it sure makes those sudden stops painful. Basically, too much speed makes us unreadable. The car driver looks down the street, sees a headlight approaching at what he guesses to be the speed limit, and proceeds through the intersection. Unfortunately, the bike is doing double the speed limit and slams into the side of the car. Whose fault is it? Not the car driver's. Slow down to be seen; slow down to avoid being misread. Slowing down allows you to stop before becoming involved in someone else's mistake. Even if you're the Kevin Schwantz of braking, it takes more distance to stop a bike from 50 mph than it does from 30 mph; that extra distance usually isn't available to urban guerrillas. Slowing down gives your brain a chance to notice things and more time to react. Your peripheral vision widens and you relax enough to read and predict traffic. Try walking down the supermarket aisle and reading labels, then try running down the same aisle. Now imagine all those soup cans are about to jump into your path and you'll see how slowing down affects your perception. There are plenty of places to go fast, but in and around traffic isn't one of them. If you can't slow down in town, put me in your will. An ugly chain reaction can be started when a car squeezes into the right lane of a crowded freeway, and you'll be affected if you don't take action. Predict possible outcomes and place yourself safely in surrounding traffic. Often that means safely accelerating ahead of the mess. URBAN GUERRILLA BONUS STEP: PRACTICE When everything goes wrong and the above five steps fail to keep you in safety's arms, you'd better be a good motorcycle rider. Get to an empty parking lot and practice braking; take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Experienced RiderCourse. Experiment with flicking lane changes. Become intimately familiar with the effects of countersteering, experimenting with differing pressures on the handgrips. Practice quick glances in the mirrors and hurried looks over your shoulder, as if you were initiating an emergency lane change. Use your turn signals in all conditions so that you'll remember to cancel them when things get stressful. Know the route you and your neighborhood commuters take on the way to the freeway and study the mistakes being made; when you're not on your bike, watch traffic patterns and instances that would get a rider in trouble. All this is practice, and it's just as important for the urban guerrilla as it is for the expert-level roadracer. You can't win a trophy with your commuting prowess, but you can step out of the car or bus and add two irreplaceable things to your life: time and enjoyment. Intersections are our toughest challenges. This rider is moving into the right side of his lane to gain and give the most unobstructed view possible, a good idea since the car waiting to turn left is all but blinded by the UPS truck. Slow down, cover your brakes, and use your lane to position yourself for maximum conspicuity. *This article was originally published in the August 1995 issue of Sport Rider. [/i]

Slazem se. Ako admini hoce, bilo bi dobro napraviti sticky temu da svi vide i svi stavljaju svoje savete i tekstove za koje misle da ce svima koristiti. :idea:

Dobrodosao! :pivo:

Pozdrav!

Vozdra! :pivo:

Pozdrav !

Dobrodošao, mladi skakavèe

xexe, znam... i mene mrzi, a vise ni ne primecujem koji je jezik. Eto, pa ko bude imao vremena nek prevede. A sad jedan tekst o COUNTER-STEERING-u: Everyone who has driven a motorcycle has experienced it, the MSF classes mention (but don't explain) it, and motorcyclists discuss it all the time. But what is it, really? How does it work? Why does it work? All questions I will try to deal with in this discussion. At very slow speeds we steer a motorcycle by turning the handlebar in the direction we wish to go. We can only do that at speeds of less than about 5 MPH. At any higher speed we do the exact opposite, whether we realize it or not. For example, assuming we want to turn to the right, we actually TRY to turn the handlebar left. This results in the front wheel leaning to the right and, as a result of the lean of the wheel, a turn to the right. This is counter-steering. Why is it that we don't get confused regardless of our speed? Because we have learned that steering a motorcycle is an effortless chore. That attempt to turn the handlebar to the left FEELS like we are pushing the right grip rather than pulling on the left one. It feels like that because the harder we push it, the more the motorcycle turns to the right and, thus, it feels like the right grip is pushing back at you that much harder. In other words, we quickly learn to associate counter-steering feedback with the hand closest to the direction in which we wish to turn. Further, even a little bit of experience shows that counter-steering is essentially effortless while trying to turn the handlebar in the direction you want to go is virtually impossible. Humans are relatively fast studies, after all. It takes only a modest familiarity with a gyroscope to understand counter-steering - at least to understand how most people believe it starts to work. (They are generally WRONG, but I will explain their position nonetheless.) The phenomenon is called Gyroscopic Precession. This is what happens when a lateral force is applied to the axis of a spinning gyroscope. The spinning gyroscope translates the force vector ninety degrees off the direction of spin. Thus, if we try to turn our front wheel to the left, the force we use appears as a lateral force forward against the axle on the right side and this is translated into a force that tries to lean the wheel to the right. Similarly, trying to turn the wheel to the right results in the wheel trying to lean to the left. But gyroscopic precession is not a necessary component of counter-steering. No matter how slight, if your front wheel deviates from a straight path your motorcycle will begin to lean in the opposite direction. It is entirely accurate to assume that even without gyroscopic precession, the act of steering the front wheel out from under the bike would start counter-steering in the opposite direction. This is a result of steering geometry - rake. You can observe it at a complete stop. Just turn your handlebars in one direction and you will see that your bike leans in the opposite direction as a result. [Please note that though gyroscopic precession is not a necessary component of counter-steering it facilitates it - makes it smoother - but does NOT cause it. In plain language - centrifugal force is what initiates counter-steering, not gyroscopics. Please see Centrifugal Force for a better understanding.] In the case of a motorcycle, your handlebar input is immediately translated by gyroscopic precession into a lean in the opposite direction. Since your front wheel is attached to the bike's frame, the body of the bike also attempts to lean. It is the lean of the BIKE that overwhelms the handlebar effort and drags the front wheel over with it - gyroscopic precession merely starts the process and soon becomes inconsequential in the outcome. If, for example, you had a ski rather than a front wheel, the front would actually begin to turn in the direction of handlebar input (just like it does with a wheel instead of a ski) and body lean in the opposite direction would then overwhelm that ski making counter-steering still effective. The ONLY WAY to turn a motorcycle that is moving faster than you can walk is by leaning it (if it only has two wheels). We have talked only about what starts that lean to take place. Indeed, all we have talked about is the directional change of the front wheel along with the simultaneous lean of the bike, both in the opposite direction signaled by handlebar input. So then what happens? Before getting into what is actually somewhat complicated let me say that if you were to let go of your handlebars and provide no steering information whatever (or you were to get knocked off your motorcycle), after some wildly exciting swings from side to side your motorcycle would 'find' a straight course to travel in and would stabilize itself on that course, straight up! That's right, your motorcycle has a self-correcting design built into it - known as its Steering Geometry - that causes it to automatically compensate for all forms of leaning and speed changes and end up standing straight up, going in a straight line, whether you are on the bike or not - until it is traveling so slowly that it will fall down. This diagram shows a typical motorcycle front-end. The handlebars are connected to the steering column, which is connected to the knee bone, which is... Oops, wrong discussion. The steering column (actually called the 'steering stem') does not connect to the knee bone, nor does it connect directly to your forks! Instead, it connects to what is known as the triple-tree (shown as D in the diagram.) This is merely where both forks are tied, along with the steering stem, to the bike's frame. You will notice that the triple-tree extends towards the front and that as a result the forks are offset forward some distance from the steering stem. (Notice the red diagonal lines marked C and C'.) This is known as the offset. Now please notice that the forks are not pointing straight down from the triple-tree, but are instead at an angle. This angle is known as the rake. Were it not for that rake (and modest offset) the front tire would touch the ground at point A. (Most rake angles are approximately 30 degrees.) What the rake does for you is profoundly important. For one thing, it causes any lean of the wheel to be translated into a turn of the wheel towards that lean. For another, it slows down your steering. That is, if you turn your handlebar 20 degrees at slow speed your course will change something less than 20 degrees. [At higher speeds you NEVER would turn your handlebars 20 degrees - the front wheel is always pointing virtually straight ahead.] Rake, in the case of higher speed turning then really does SLOW DOWN the realization of the turn. (We will see why soon.) Looking at the diagram, imagine that instead of pointing to the right the wheel is pointing straight at you. (The body of the motorcycle remains pointing to the right.) You will now recognize that the contact patch which was B before the wheel turned has now got to be near where C' is at. In other words, the fact that your wheel is on a rake results in the consumption of part of your steering input into a displacement of the contact patch of the wheel. (This is why steering is 'slower' - and the greater the rake, the slower it is. Note that 'slow steering' is NOT the same as 'under-steer'.) Notice also that where the red diagonal line marked C' touches the tire is higher than where B touches the tire. This demonstrates that a consequence of turning is that the front-end of your motorcycle actually lowers based on rake geometry. The distance between where B and C (not C') touch the ground is called trail. (Trail, as you can see, is determined by rake angle, offset and tire radius.) Some motorcycles will have the hub of the front wheel either above or below the forks rather than directly in the middle of them. In effect, these placements are designed to reduce or increase the effect of the offset in order to increase or reduce trail. The stability of your motorcycle at speed is a function of how long its trail is. However, have you ever noticed that the front wheel on bikes that have excessive rakes (and therefore long trail) have a tendency to flop over (at low speeds) when they are not aligned perfectly straight ahead? This is the phenomena that explains just one of the reasons why your wheel actually turns in the direction you want to go after it begins to lean in that direction. Any lean whatever of the wheel, because gravity tries to lower the front-end, receives an assist from gravity in its efforts to move the contact patch forward along the trail. Further, notice that the pivot axis of your forks is along C, not C' and that this is behind the bulk of the front-end. Thus, gravity plays an even bigger role in causing the wheel to turn than at first glance it would appear. (And now you see why you have steering dampers - so that a little lean doesn't result in a FAST tank-slapping fall of the wheel in the direction of the lean.) But there is another, more powerful, reason that the lean is translated into a turn - Camber Thrust. Unlike automobile tires, your motorcycle rides on tires that are rounded instead of flat from side to side. When you are riding vertically your contact patch is right in the middle of the tire, at its farthest point from the hub of the wheel. When you are leaning you are riding on a part of the tire that is closer to the hub of the wheel. The farthest parts of the tire from the hub of the wheel are TURNING FASTER than any part closer to that hub. Thus, when you are leaning the outside edge of the contact patch is moving faster than is the inside edge. Imagine taking two tapered drinking glasses and putting them together as in the next diagram. Does this not bear a striking resemblance to the profile of your tires when looking at them head on? Now imagine placing one of those glasses on its side on the table and giving it a push. Note that the glass MUST move in a circle because the lip of the glass is moving faster than any other part of it. The same is true of your tires. This camber thrust forces your wheel to turn in response to a lean. Thus, both the rake geometry and camber thrust conspire to cause a leaning front wheel to become a turn in the direction of the lean. Then, of course, the motorcycle body follows the wheel and it, too, leans in the direction of the turn. So, now you know what counter-steering is, how it works, and why. What might just now be occurring to you is with all of these forces conspiring to cause the wheel to lean and then turn in the direction you want to go, what stops that wheel from going all the way to a stop every time a little counter-steer is used? And, as I earlier mentioned, how does a pilotless motorcycle automatically right itself? The answer to both of those questions is centrifugal force and, again, rake geometry. For any given speed and lean combination there is only one diameter of a circle that can be maintained. This is a natural balance point at which gravity is trying to pull the bike down and centrifugal force is trying to stand it up, both with equal results. (If you have Excel on your system you might want to click on this link for a model that demonstrates this concept.) If the speed is increased without a corresponding decrease in the diameter of the turn being made, centrifugal force will try to stand the bike more vertically - i.e., decreases the lean angle. This, in turn, decreases the camber thrust and the bike will, of its own accord, increase the diameter of the turn being made. If the speed had been held constant but the bike attempts to shorten the diameter of the turn beyond that natural balance point then centrifugal forces are greater than gravity and it stands taller, again lengthening the diameter of the turn as described earlier. Once your bike is stable in a curve (constant speed and constant lean) then it will stay that way until it receives some steering input. i.e., you again use some counter-steering or the road surface changes or the wind changes or you shift your weight in some way or you change speed. As soon as any form of steering input occurs the stability of the bike is diminished. Momentum, camber forces and rake geometry will then engage in mortal combat with each other which will, eventually, cause the motorcycle to find a way to straighten itself out. That momentum will try to keep the motorcycle going in a straight line is obvious, but it also works with traction in an interesting way. That is, because the front tire's contact patch has traction the momentum of the entire motorcycle is applied to the task of trying to 'scrub' the rubber off that tire. If the body of the motorcycle is aligned with the front tire (only possible if traveling in a straight line) then there is essentially no 'scrubbing' going on. But if the bike is not in perfect alignment with the front tire, then momentum will try to straighten the wheel by pushing against the edge of that contact patch which is on the outside of the curve. As the contact patch touches the ground somewhere near point B, and because that is significantly behind the pivot axis of the front-end (red-dashed line C), the wheel is forced to pivot away from the curve. I believe you now see why if the bike were to become pilotless it would wildly gyrate for a few moments as all of these conflicting forces battled each other and the bike became stable by seeking a straight path and being vertical. Clever, these motorcycle front-end designers. No? By James R. Davis

hahahaha! Imas samo 3 motora! hahahaha! hehe, ma shala, komika Ovaj...da. Dobrodoshao!!!!!! :pivo:

Two weeks ago a rider died when he and his bike tumbled off a cliff paralleling our favorite road. No gravel in the lane, no oncoming car pushing him wide, no ice. The guy screwed up. Rider error. Too much enthusiasm with too little skill, and this fatality wasn't the first on this road this year. As with most single-bike accidents, the rider entered the corner at a speed his brain told him was too fast, stood the bike up and nailed the rear brake. Goodbye. On the racetrack the rider would have tumbled into the hay bales, visited the ambulance for a strip of gauze and headed back to the pits to straighten his handlebars and think about his mistake. But let's get one thing perfectly clear: the street is not the racetrack. Using it as such will shorten your riding career and keep you from discovering the Pace. The Pace is far from street racing - and a lot more fun. The Pace places the motorcycle in its proper role as the controlled vehicle, not the controlling vehicle. Too many riders of sportbikes become baggage when the throttle gets twisted - the ensuing speed is so overwhelming they are carried along in the rush. The Pace ignores outright speed and can be as much fun on a Ninja 250 as on a ZX-11, emphasizing rider skill over right-wrist bravado. A fool can twist the grip, but a fool has no idea how to stop or turn. Learning to stop will save your life; learning to turn will enrich it. What feels better than banking a motorcycle over into a corner? The mechanics of turning a motorcycle involve pushing and/or pulling on the handlebars; while this isn't new information for most sport riders, realize that the force at the handlebar affects the motorcycle's rate of turn-in. Shove hard on the bars, and the bike snaps over; gently push the bars, and the bike lazily banks in. Different corners require different techniques, but as you begin to think about lines, late entrances and late apexes, turning your bike at the exact moment and reaching the precise lean angle will require firm, forceful inputs at the handlebars. If you take less time to turn your motorcycle, you can use that time to brake more effectively or run deeper into the corner, affording yourself more time to judge the corner and a better look at any hidden surprises. It's important to look as far into the corner as possible and remember the adage, "You go where you look." DON'T RUSH The number-one survival skill, after mastering emergency braking, is setting your corner-entrance speed early, or as Kenny Roberts says, "Slow in, fast out." Street riders may get away with rushing into 99 out of 100 corners, but that last one will have gravel, mud or a trespassing car. Setting entrance speed early will allow you to adjust your speed and cornering line, giving you every opportunity to handle the surprise. We've all rushed into a corner too fast and experienced not just the terror but the lack of control when trying to herd the bike into the bend. If you're fighting the brakes and trying to turn the bike, any surprise will be impossible to deal with. Setting your entrance speed early and looking into the corner allows you to determine what type of corner you're facing. Does the radius decrease? Is the turn off-camber? Is there an embankment that may have contributed some dirt to the corner? Racers talk constantly about late braking, yet that technique is used only to pass for position during a race, not to turn a quicker lap time. Hard braking blurs the ability to judge cornering speed accurately, and most racers who rely too heavily on the brakes find themselves passed at the corner exits because they scrubbed off too much cornering speed. Additionally, braking late often forces you to trail the brakes or turn the motorcycle while still braking. While light trail braking is an excellent and useful technique to master, understand that your front tire has only a certain amount of traction to give. If you use a majority of the front tire's traction for braking and then ask it to provide maximum cornering traction as well, a typical low-side crash will result. Also consider that your motorcycle won't steer as well with the fork fully compressed under braking. If you're constantly fighting the motorcycle while turning, it may be because you're braking too far into the corner. All these problems can be eliminated by setting your entrance speed early, an important component of running the Pace. Since you aren't hammering the brakes at every corner entrance, your enjoyment of pure cornering will increase tremendously. You'll relish the feeling of snapping your bike into the corner and opening the throttle as early as possible. Racers talk about getting the drive started, and that's just as important on the street. Notice how the motorcycle settles down and simply works better when the throttle is open? Use a smooth, light touch on the throttle and try to get the bike driving as soon as possible in the corner, even before the apex, the tightest point of the corner. If you find yourself on the throttle ridiculously early, it's an indication you can increase your entrance speed slightly by releasing the brakes earlier. As you sweep past the apex, you can begin to stand the bike up out of the corner. This is best done by smoothly accelerating, which will help stand the bike up. As the rear tire comes off full lean, it puts more rubber on the road, and the forces previously used for cornering traction can be converted to acceleration traction. The throttle can be rolled open as the bike stands up. This magazine won't tell you how fast is safe; we will tell you how to go fast safely. How fast you go is your decision, but it's one that requires reflection and commitment. High speed on an empty four-lane freeway is against the law, but it's fairly safe. Fifty-five miles per hour in a canyon may be legal, but it may also be dangerous. Get together with your friends and talk about speed. Set a reasonable maximum and stick to it. Done right, the Pace is addicting without high straight-away speeds. The group I ride with couldn't care less about outright speed between corners; any gomer can twist a throttle. If you routinely go 100 mph, we hope you routinely practice emergency stops from that speed. Keep in mind outright speed will earn a ticket that is tough to fight and painful to pay; cruising the easy straight stuff doesn't attract as much attention from the authorities and sets your speed perfectly for the next sweeper. GROUP MENTALITY Straights are the time to reset the ranks. The leader needs to set a pace that won't bunch up the followers, especially while leaving a stop sign or passing a car on a two-lane road. The leader must use the throttle hard to get around the car and give the rest of the group room to make the pass, yet he or she can't speed blindly along and earn a ticket for the whole group. With sane speeds on the straights, the gaps can be adjusted easily; the bikes should be spaced about two seconds apart for maximum visibility of surface hazards. It's the group aspect of the Pace I enjoy most, watching the bikes in front of me click into a corner like a row of dominoes, or looking in my mirror as my friends slip through the same set of corners I just emerged from. Because there's a leader and a set of rules to follow, the competitive aspect of sport riding is eliminated and that removes a tremendous amount of pressure from a young rider's ego - or even an old rider's ego. We've all felt the tug of racing while riding with friends or strangers, but the Pace takes that away and saves it for where it belongs: the racetrack. The racetrack is where you prove your speed and take chances to best your friends and rivals. I've spent a considerable amount of time writing about the Pace (see Motorcyclist, Nov. '91) for several reasons, not the least of which being the fun I've had researching it (continuous and ongoing). But I have motivations that aren't so fun. I got scared a few years ago when Senator Danforth decided to save us from ourselves by trying to ban superbikes, soon followed by insurance companies blacklisting a variety of sport bikes. I've seen Mulholland Highway shut down because riders insisted on racing (and crashing) over a short section of it. I've seen heavy police patrols on roads that riders insist on throwing themselves off of. I've heard the term "murder-cycles" a dozen times too many. When we consider the abilities of a modern sportbike, it becomes clear that rider techniques is sorely lacking. The Pace emphasizes intelligent, rational riding techniques that ignore racetrack heroics without sacrificing fun. The skills needed to excel on the racetrack make up the basic precepts of the Pace, excluding the mind-numbing speeds and leaving the substantially larger margin for error needed to allow for unknowns and immovable objects. Our sport faces unwanted legislation from outsiders, but a bit of throttle management from within will guarantee our future. THE PACE PRINCIPLES Set cornering speed early. Blow the entrance and you'll never recover. Look down the road. Maintaining a high visual horizon will reduce perceived speed and help you avoid panic situations. Steer the bike quickly. There's a reason Wayne Rainey works out - turning a fast-moving motorcycle takes muscle. Use your brakes smoothly but firmly. Get on and then off the brakes; don't drag 'em. Get the throttle on early. Starting the drive settles the chassis, especially through a bumpy corner. Never cross the centerline except to pass. Crossing the centerline in a corner is an instant ticket and an admittance that you can't really steer your bike. In racing terms, your lane is your course; staying right of the line adds a significant challenge to most roads and is mandatory for sport riding's future. Don't crowd the centerline. Always expect an oncoming car with two wheels in your lane. Don't hang off in the corners or tuck in on the straights. Sitting sedately on the bike looks safer and reduces unwanted attention. It also provides a built-in safety margin. When leading, ride for the group. Good verbal communication is augmented with hand signals and turn signals; change direction and speed smoothly. When following, ride with the group. If you can't follow a leader, don't expect anyone to follow you when you're setting the pace. Nick Ienatsch Sport Rider Magazine June 1993

Gomila tekstova zivi na netu. Neki su skroz dobri, neki su ciste gluposti... Pokusacu da postujem ovde sve one za koje smatram da su vredni citanja. Za pocetak, evo jedne male lekcije iz fizike:

I ti to dobro znas, Bobo ! Dobrodosao!

Dobrodosao ! :pivo:

"If you aren't at least a little surprised by something on every ride - a bit of motorcycle control you haven't used in a while, or the new charming behavior of a four wheeled pilot - you simply aren't looking hard enough. The best riders - and the oldest ones - realize that there are many small lessons in every ride. The measure of your skill and ultimate safety isn't whether you arrive without incident - it's what you learned along the way. I. Survival A. Stayin' alive First of your advantages is your greatly improved visibility that comes with your higher eye level. You can see (and feel) changes in traffic flow that are undetectable to car drivers. You can use your lateral mobility within your lane to see around trucks and pick up on traffic trends long before the car guys have a clue. The motorcycle's small size lets it slide through gaps unavailable to cars; tremendous acceleration can blast you out of tight situations as well. A motorcycle is a small, hard to see target, and you move in ways that are unpredictable to car drivers. They don't see enough bikes around to be aware of them. If they happen to see you, they will avoid you. If you don't catch their eye, they'll behave as if you don't exist. Steering clear of other drivers blind spots is critical to your survival. Statistics show that riding with your high beam on and wearing brightly colored clothing and a highly visible helmet are ways to reduce your risk of being taken out by a four wheeled pilot. Riding well and avoiding random acts of automotive idiocy is an intense mental exercise, an act of sustained concentration on your part. The more into the ride you are, the better you'll ride - and the safer you'll be. B. Top Three Natural-Born Killers 1. Be inconspicuous Car and truck drivers don't really want to kill us. It's just they won't avoid what they can't see. If you pull into an intersection on a black bike with burnt headlight and a dark colored helmet, wearing a dark jacket; for all intents and purposes you are invisible. Expect the worst. 2. Ride drunk This just in: drunk people do stupid things! One of the stupidest is convincing themselves they're OK to ride. Alcohol reduces motor skills and degrades judgment, while at the same time boosts bravado. This makes an excellent way to find yourself, or what's left, in a body bag. 3. Ride unaware Motorcyclist face threats from every angle and virtually all of them can be easily dealt with by an aware, mentally involved rider. Sh*t does happen, but if you're paying attention you can see it coming. II. Engine Management It's the engine that makes a motorcycle so interesting, and it's that motor that can get you into so much trouble if it's not properly managed. The tremendous acceleration that most bikes offer is a big part of your self-defense. Passes that would be suicidal in a Ford Taurus are nothing on most bikes, or merging with fast moving traffic is like second nature. All that power demands smoothness on your part, especially when it's carried in a package as pitch sensitive as a motorcycle. Being able to stand on it's rear wheel one moment and then on it's front wheel the next makes a motorcycle particularly intolerant of sloppy handling. Smoothness is the key. This means understanding where your particular engine makes it's best power and developing the skills to deliver that power to the rear wheel when needed. The key to downshifting properly is to understand the purpose of the exercise. To get the engine in proper RPM range to pull hard the next time the throttle is opened. Downshifting will slow help to slow down your bike, but it's a very expensive brake. Matching engine revs to the rear wheel speed is the challenge of downshifting, and it requires a feel for your bike that can only be developed over time. Get the revs wrong and you'll upset the chassis, but if you do it right the new gear will arrive seamlessly. III. Skill Building A. The Turning Point You don't have to be able you design a motorcycle to be a brilliant rider, but you do need to understand counter steering. That's the term used to describe how direction changes are initiated on a motorcycle. If you ride at all you are already counter steering (subconsciously, at least). Consciously learning counter steering can dramatically increase your motorcycle's maneuverability and your control over it. In panic situations this skill and the confidence to use it can save your life. How it works? A bike traveling in a straight line at moderate speed will keep going straight. The faster you go the harder it is to change directions. Making a turn requires you to upset the happy balance of physics. The most efficient and precise way is apply force to the handle bars, surprisingly, counter the direction of the turn. This brief counter steering steers the tire contract patches out from under the bike's center of gravity, banking the bike and rides into the planned turn. With the counter steering force released as the proper lean angle is reached the bike will carve the turn with minimum corrective steering input. Doing this subconsciously is one thing, but doing it consciously can be rattling at first. How you apply the counter steering force and how you visualize what your doing is your personal preference. Most riders think of it as push left, go left, and vice versa. Although, a pull back on the right grip will do the same either way works fine. Practicing counter steering is easy. While your cruising in a straight line, give a short, sharp forward shove to one of the hand grips, and you'll see an instant lean to the same side. Experiment with how much force is needed and how long to hold it. B. Just Stop It Motorcycle's don't have the luxury of antilock braking system. Some have linked braking system, but there is still plenty of brake control up to the rider. Independent brakes are a pain for new riders and almost a gift for seasoned expert. The less experienced struggle to develop a feel for impending front wheel lock up and the proper balance between front and rear braking levels. A good sport bike on clean pavement can produce enough front brake power to raise it's rear tire off the ground. Getting a feel for the proper braking level is something that can only be learned through practice. Squeezing the brakes smoothly is less upsetting to the chassis and gives you the most feedback. Visions of stoppies make new riders use the rear brake more. This can be a fatal mistake. Rely on the rear brake to much and you won't use the front at all. This means you'll hit stuff that you could of missed by stopping properly. The real stopping power is in the front brakes. To building confidence in using the front brake is to use it at every stop. Though awkward and uncomfortable, the practice of keeping two fingers on the front brake lever at all times can reduce your reaction time in a panic situation. The ability to brake in a corner is a skill that must be learned. You may need to suddenly stop in a corner or just ride the brake a little to prevent from riding on the curb because you over shot the turn. Applying the brakes, soft and easy in a turn will stand the bike upright. To much will make you slide and end up on the curb. This is another skill learned with practice. C. Wet Weather Tactics Rain reduces visibility, hides low traction areas and conceals potholes with a "harmless" puddle of water. Railroad tracks, manhole covers, steel grating, and plates become highly treacherous.The available pavement grip is reduced to an unknown amount. The best thing to do when riding in the rain is devote your concentration to keeping yourself out of tight spots. This way you don't stake your life on finding traction that might not be there. You should double your following distance. Be aware of driveways, side roads and crossing streets that may give someone a chance to pull out in front of you. Never forget the left turning driver that just never saw you. The motorcyclist is far less visible in the wet, which is bad for anyone interested in reaching old age. Use your high beams, it's better to annoy a few drivers than to become lost in the background with the low beams. Despite your best efforts to avoid tight spots, a situation will arise that will require decisive avoidance actions. A trick experienced rain riders use is to calibrate themselves occasionally during a wet ride. In normal stop and go riding squeeze off a little extra rear brake at a normal intersection stop. On a familiar bike locking the rear tire ( in a straight line at low speeds) shouldn't be a problem to control. You can get a feeling of how much traction is available. You can also purposely apply extra power on the take off to see how much is available and what you can handle. When the chips are down, it'll be to late for experimenting. When you need to take action and how much depends on the situation. If hard braking is required to avoid impact and you see no other way out, then commit to full on braking. Whether the situation requires braking or turning the secret here is to get quickly and smoothly to a level of corning or braking that will get you out of trouble. At this point you're committed, worry about traction is useless. Either it will be there and a disaster will be avoided, or it won't and you'll crash. That alternative is impact at full force, braking hard will at least slow things and impact may not be as devastating. Not an appealing prospect but one that should help you maintain your mental focus on staying clear of trouble on your next rain ride. D. Assume The Position Body position of a rider can tell you a lot about a rider's skill level. A relatively upright posture is the byproduct of an involved, aware rider. What sport rider hasn't felt the urge to get into full tuck and rest on the passenger pegs, and what cruiser pilot can resist the comfy highway pegs. A sprawled-out position can easily add an extra second you may not have when trouble arises. At 60 mph you'll roll an extra 88 feet before you're in full-battle readiness. That's 88 feet you may not have. Adopt an active posture and you're ready to react. Cornering styles vary from rider to rider and within certain bounds are personal preference. Some riders are most comfortable with a mild hang off riding style when cornering. Others hang off radically in high speed twisties leaving no room for error. This kind of riding is not very promising. E. Speed Reading The surface of the road has a story it's dying to tell; are you willing to read it? The condition of the pavement you ride on has a dramatic effect on your safety, and in turn should weigh heavily on how you set your velocity. Rain is a problem dealt with in the previous story, but what can cause trouble on dry pavement? A lot! Much of city riding tactics are built around staying out of driver's blind spots and out of the slick areas in the center of a lane. The best path to follow is the wheel tracks of the car in front of you. They'll graciously bunt much of the minor road trash out of your path. Make a surface check a part of your visual scan. Use your high view point to look for spilled fluids on the road ahead. This is important information, since the action you take in response to a threat depends on what the surface is like. Keep alert for a whiff of chemicals, fuel, or a sudden wave of humid air. These can tip you off of something slick in the road ahead. On and off ramps are a dumping grounds for fuel, creepy liquids that come out of garbage trucks, and plenty of other trash. Unless your eyes tell you differently stay to the extreme inside of a filthy corner. The bad stuff is usually thrown to the outside of the turn. Away from the city surface contaminates are more stealthy. Sand and gravel have the same texture and appearance as the underlying pavement, but with none of the grip. Some states cover fresh tar with pea gravel to extend the life span of older roadbeds. Besides the fun flying gravel, this situation leave the surface alternating between well bonded gravel to loose gravel that mimics marbles. Not good. Another is the application of tar over pavement cracks. When recently applied under the hot sun this goop has a fraction of the grip of the surrounding pavement. One good thing is tar strips are usually easy to see. Painted lines, road surface reflectors and manhole covers can also be very slippery. Open road tourers only have to see one big truck tire come apart and they realize that they want to be far away from big rigs whenever possible. IV. Advanced Tactics A. Out With The Gang Group riding is one of the great pleasures of motorcycling. Provided your out with a good group, people you know and trust. Staggered formation is the building block for group rides of any size. The leader should take the left wheel track of a selected lane and the follower in the right wheel track trailing behind to stay clearly visible to the leader and allowing room for lateral movement. The rest should follow the pattern. If you can see the eyes of the rider ahead of you, you'll be assured of ample clearance. Side to side riding should be left for stops or deserted interstates where sudden threats are few and far between. Any time a situation gets scary the group should fall in a loose, single file formation. In heavy traffic or in the mountains this is the way to go. A simple rule to keep riders together over many miles is: Each rider is responsible for the rider following. Make sure you get a glimpse of that headlight every couple of minutes, and nobody will get lost for long. B. Finding The Perfect Line Much is made of the art and science of line selection. Whether it be on a twisty road, or on a full-blown race track. Everybody has their (or soon to develop one) of what the "fast line" is. In simplest terms, the fastest path through a given corner is the straightest path. By effectively straightening out the corner, you have to slow down less. That means your velocity at maximum lean will be higher and you'll waste less time slowing down into a corner and speeding up coming out. Though some race track turns can approach the simplicity of a textbook corner, most turns, particularly those on the street, have a great many variables that demand a shift in your line selection priorities. Chief among these (for riders interested in riding well into the future) is visibility. When driving into a partially blind corner that is either completely unfamiliar or is not manned by corner workers ready to warn you of debris or obstructions (that would be all corners on the street), a modified line is in order. Call it late-apex cornering. Instead of entering wide and gracefully arching down to tag the classic midcorner apex, then feeding power to widen your exit arc all the way back to the outside again, you take a different approach. You stay on a straight path under braking at corner entrance, and continue deeper into the turn than you normally would, slowing to a slightly lower slower lower cornering speed before banking sharply toward a late apex. Much of the direction change is concentrated in the section of the corner just after braking is complete. Since much of your direction change is done, instead of waiting until the classic apex to feed in power, as visibility permits, you're on the gas sooner. The late apex approach has substantial benefits for the street rider; the greatest is that it allows you to get through an unknown corner very quickly, without having to commit yourself to something you can't see. For starters, braking is done with the bike nearly vertical, where almost all available grip can be used to get you slowed down. Your braking zone is visible throughout your approach, making it easy to judge. Then at the point you're done braking and begin imitating your turn-in, your outside position gives you a better view around the turn than you would have on the classic "racing" line, and at this moment in the process, your speed is lower. At this point you have the luxury of the reassessing in the corner and it's condition. If it's clean and free of centerline-crossing cars, you can roll on a heady blast of power to charge out of the bend. More important, if all is not right with the world, you are in a far better position to take corrective action than the guy on the classic racing line who's committed to a high cornering speed and has nothing left in reserve for braking. Anything that forces him wider (whether it's a too-close oncoming car or dirt on the road) threatens to send him clean off the road, with messy consequences." *http://www.fzrarchives.com/articals/ride_better_harder_and_faster.html

Pozdrav!

Vozdra !

Dobrodosao! Povuci i pokreni zabavu! :pivo:

Pozdrav! O.K.

Jeste Pa svrati kad vidis da sam tu! Pozz!