Dobrodosao normalni! Cime se bavish?

To su specijalne slik gume za powerboating Evo jos jednog:

Cekaj dok pocne struja da te za.ebava, regler itd...

Dobrodosao!

Ne znam kako stojis sa engleskim? Evo ti par linkova: http://www.superstreetbike.com/stunt_howto/122_0444_how_stoppie_trick_street_bike/ http://www.uponone.com/viewhowtos5.php

Meni ovaj zavrtanj i ne deluje nesto ubedljivo.. da li se zavija kljucem ili rukom? Ako je lanac preciveo macolu i kirner, ono mi i ne deluje nesto jako, obicna stegica.. Mozda ima nesto sto ja ne znam pa vredi 50e???

Naidjoh na ovu interesantu izmisljotinu... mrzi me da prevodim tekst no i slika govori vise nego hiljadu reci! 360-Brake The New World Of Custom Brakes By Wrench his could be the product of the year, a braking system within the wheel of a hub. At last we could see those bitchin’ wheels. But as our Bikernet investigation continued the benefits of this new system expanded. “It’s called the “360 Brake” and it is revolutionizing the braking industry,” said Chet Burozski, of Baldwin Wilson Development Corporation out of Brownsburg, Indiana. “The design is actually quite simple. Take a clutch - make it work backwards - then stick it in the hub spacer between the wheel and the swing arm or lower fork leg.” The “360 Brake” is a hydraulically activated brake that applies pressure to a piston that runs 360 degrees around the axle. The piston movement causes two brake pads, also 360 degrees around the axle to clamp on the rotor. The pads and rotor float across five drive pins that are attached to the rotor hat. The “360 Brake” uses two square, O-ring type, hydraulic seals in grooves to seal the piston and pull it back (after pressure is applied) allowing the brake to release as quickly as it was applied, resulting in decreased drag, less wear and less noise from the pads. My first question revolved around the heat produced by constant 360 degree pad friction, without any cooling area from the rotor. I spoke to Tim Wilson the manufacturing arm of the team. “We spent 1.5 million investigating and testing rotor and pad materials,” Tim said. “In the process we discovered that larger rotors spin the rotor metal twice as fast as our small rotor, generating more heat.” Under testing their current iron rotors and semi-metallic pads generate 260 degrees of heat and up to 500 degrees during repeated panic stops, which isn’t bad. The basis for the design is not unique. It has a history of airplane use, except for one startling aspect, the 360-degree piston. Airplanes use a hub braking system with three pistons staged around the rotor area. Fred Baldwin came up with the initial design less than a year ago on a drink napkin and applied it to his design concepts for a twin-engine jet. He approached Tim to have some of his components manufactured, but Tim keyed on the braking system. “I knew it had considerable potential, so I pushed Fred to actively test, manufacture and market. We are quickly discovering additional applications outside the motorcycle or airplane markets.” First they covered their asses through the patent process and didn’t step into the market until they were secure. Results from this design have been staggering. It looks like you have no brakes at all, when in actuality you have on average 60% more brake pad touching the rotor than conventional brakes. “The stopping is smoother because you don’t have the pull of a caliper 6 to 8 inches away from the axle,” said Chet. The brakes encompass the axle and keep the bike straight during hard stops. Think about what he said. Under load, common disc brakes pull front ends down and attempt to launch the motorcycle and rider over the front axle, like Stoppies. That virtually removes weight off the rear wheels in addition to removing stopping power. Standard disc brakes deliver 80 percent of stopping effectiveness to the front wheel and 20 percent to the rear. Under extreme conditions this level depreciates to 90/10 until rear brakes are nearly useless. There’s also a gyro-scopic effect of normal disc brakes pulling bikes out of alignment. The 360-brake causes a bike to squat,” Tim explained, “and the percentage of effectiveness runs from 60/40 to a consistent 50/50. Plus the bike won’t veer out of alignment, but stay true to the steering track.” They also noticed that wheels without heavy rotors track better in windy conditions. Motorcycle front ends can act and respond more effectively without the weight and mass. The “360 Brake” also deadens the lever affect caused by a standard rotor and caliper. That’s to say when you stop the old way someone on the back would feel as if they were being launched over the handle bars. With the “360 Brake” the feeling is a gentle slide forward and down into the rider in front of you instead of being slammed into them. The “360 Brake” also applies downward pressure to the back tire increasing contact with the road and allowing harder braking without loosing traction. Testing showed that the 360-degree brake would stop similar motorcycles up to two car lengths faster than standard brakes in 0-60 mph tests. Under repeated testing the 360-brake showed substantially less heat deterioration than standard discs. That’s not all. Initially Tim was convinced that larger mastercylinders were required. It’s not the case. Smaller, less- volume mastercylinders work the best. Installing a 360-brake requires that as much as 2 5/8s of an inch of material be removed from the wheel hub to set the brake against the hub. It generally removes one wheel bearing which is replaced with the 360-degree brake hub. They are also being manufactured to fit ¾-inch, 1-inch, 20 mm and 18 mm axles. Currently Renegade, RC, Ego-Tripp and PM wheels are working with the 360-Brake for hub spacers. In most cases the hub spacer can be removed from any wheel, machined and replaced. Or the guys at Baldwin Wilson will supply you with the proper spacer and you're good to go. I was still curious about the donut piston. Would it cock under load? Would it hold the fluids under constant vibration? How difficult would it be to install or bleed? What about heat to the hub or wheel bearings? My concerns were unwarranted. It’s probably the easiest brake to mount and bleed today. You can unbolt the mounting arm and spin the brake if a bubble is stuck. Since the rotor floats, heat will not transfer to the hub or wheel bearings. Since the piston is one large unit, there’s reduced wear, with increase pad surface and efficiency.

Ja bih rekao da je taj drugi pravljen za vodu! P.S. Sta kazes Mandicu sta napravise od motora?

A moze i ovako

Kojom ste brzinom peglali te krivine te ste se toliko umorili??

Zbog toga i ne mozes da ga podignes! Ipak je to jedan disk i uza guma! Kada podignes dupe, naginjanjem napred mnogo manje tezine preneses na prednju viljusku jer ti je skoro sva tezina na nogama... Ako ne ide onako kao sto sam ti opisao, onda dok kocis onda malo podigni dupe (par cm) i u trenutku kada hoces da podignes tocak u vazduh ti spustis dupe; tako da ti u tom trenutku zadnji kraj bude neopterecen i on ce poci u vis... Spustanjem dupeta ti ces ga malo poklopiti ali ce on vec imati dobru silu koja ga gura na gore, masa puta ubrzanje a masa zadnjeg kraja je veca od tvoje. Naravno ostaje ona prica da se nagnes napred i odupres o governalu... Ja sam promenio governalu na MZu pa je bila vise prema meni i spustena nize, tako da mi je bilo lakse da izvedem taj manevar... Kada steknes osecaj ne bi trebalo da dizes dupe... i da, ceo ovaj proces (pocetak kocenja i dizanje tocka) taju 2-3 sekunde... Idu jako tesko ali idu!!!

Ako se pretera sa time moze se desiti i sledece:

Dobrodosao!!! Imas li neki "belu ladju" pored dvotockasa?

Fino, nema sta... Uf, nisam mogao da sacem da otvori celu prvu sliku... u trenutku sam ogladneo...

PEZ Chopper (Orange County Choppers) Nonsensechoppers

a moze i ovako: Agregat je iz aviona, 7 cilindra, radijalno postavljeni, vazduhom hladjen, 110konja (samo) Rotec R2800

Caligo A1 Cycles “All In.” Czech Bread Full Metal Jacket Halloween The "Stealth" Titanium Skeleton Bike Viridian A i ovo su chopperi valjda? MGS Triumph Rocket Custom III LBF Cycles Suzuki GSX-R1000

Za dizanje na prednji :?: :?:

Travertson V-Rex Shelby motorcycle CAS Racing BMW 1150RS IMME 1200 BMW Boxer Sport Bike

Make Model Suzuki GSX-R1000TT Limited Edition Year 2007 (Production 150) Engine Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder, TSCC Capacity 998.6 Bore x Stroke 73.4 x 59 mm Compression Ratio 12.5:1 Induction Ignition / starting - / electric Max Power 185,1 hp @ 12000 rpm Max Torque 113 Nm @ 10000 rpm Transmission / drive 6 Speed / chain Front Suspension Inverted telescopic, coil spring, fully adjustable spring preload, high and low speed compression and rebound damping Rear Suspension Link-type, gas/oil-damped, fully adjustable spring preload, high and low speed compression and rebound damping Front Brakes 2x 310mm discs Rear Brakes Single 220mm disc Front Tyre 120/70 ZR17 Rear Tyre 190/50 R17 Seat Height 810 mm Dry-Weight Fuel Capacity 18 Litres Make Model Suzuki GSX-R 750TT Limited Edition Year 2007 (Production 200) Engine Liquid cooled four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder. Capacity 749 Bore x Stroke 70 x 48.7 mm Compression Ratio 12.5;1 Induction Fuel Injection 42mm Ignition / Starting Digital transistorized / electric Max Power 148 hp @ 13200 rpm Max Torque 64l b/ft @ 11200 rpm Transmission / Drive 6 Speed / chain Frame Twin-spar aluminum alloy Front Suspension Inverted telescopic, coil spring, spring pre-load fully adjustable, rebound and compression damping force fully adjustable Rear Suspension Link type, oil damped, coil spring, spring pre-load fully adjustable, rebound and compression damping force fully adjustable Front Brakes 2x 310mm disc 4 piston calipers Rear Brakes Single 220mm disc 1 piston caliper Front Tyre 120/70 ZR17 Rear Tyre 180/55 ZR17 Dry-Weight Fuel Capacity 16.5 Litres Make Model Suzuki GSX-R 600TT Year 2007 (Production 150) Engine Liquid cooled four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder. Capacity 599 Bore x Stroke 67 x 42.5 mm Compression Ratio 12.5;1 Induction EFI - 40mm throttle bodies Ignition / Starting Digital / electric Max Power 125 hp @ 13500 rpm Max Torque 67.7 Nm @ 11500 rpm Transmission / Drive 6 Speed / chain Frame Twin-spar aluminum alloy Front Suspension Inverted telescopic, coil spring, spring pre-load fully adjustable, rebound and compression damping force fully adjustable Rear Suspension Link type, oil damped, coil spring, spring pre-load fully adjustable, rebound and compression damping force fully adjustable Front Brakes 2x 310mm discs 4 piston calipers Rear Brakes Single 220mm disc 1 piston caliper Front Tyre 120/70 -ZR17 Rear Tyre 180/55 -ZR17 Dry-Weight Fuel Capacity 17 Litres

Zasto me probas sam? Niko ti to nece raditi rucno, vec na brusilicu i pici... a najbolji efekat se postize rucnim poliranjem...

E, jedna MNOGO ali MNOGO bitna stvar!!! Kada zelite da radite oko motora i postavite ga na dizalicu (blok, cigle ili panj), OBAVEZNO kupite pre svega 2 teniske loptice, ne moraju da budu kvalitetne, moze i kod Kineza, probusite ih i staviti na krajeve governala! Davno je neko meni to pricao i napominjao koliko je to bitno, a ja nisam obratio paznju, kao i vecina kojima se to prica... Znaci toliko sam udario glavom, da sam se isekao i oborio motor... Jos jednom napominjem, MNOGO bitna stvar... U ponedeljak idem kod kineza po teniske loptice...

Pozeljno je da ti prednji stapovi budu malo "tvrdji", znaci da dolijes ulja.. Ne znam koliko si tezak, trebalo bi da nastelujes prema svojoj tezini i stilu voznje prednje amortizere... Potrebno je da polako doziras prednju kocnicu da prebcujes tezinu napred u trenutku kada ti je zadnji kraj najlaksi i sam se nagnes napred uz dodavanje jos kocnice, samo malo ali malo ostrije... i zadnji kraj je u vazduhu! Bitno je i da ti prednja guma dobro lepi za podlogu, da asfalt bude ravan. Koliko sam ja eksperimentisao najbolje se pokazao ovaj crni asfalt, malo je hrapaviji i dobro lepi guma za njega... U pocetku pokusavaj sa malim brzinama pa postepeno sa vecim i vecim... Probaj prvo da kada stajes da podignes zadnji kraj pa posle povecavaj brzinu i duzinu voznje na prednjem tocku. I probaj to da radis bez podizanja dupeta sa sedista... Jedna napomena, VELIKA je verovatnoca da ces pasti sa motora u nekom trenutku kada radis trikove, mozda ne dok vezbas ali kada se uvezbas sigurno, ali sigurno! Ako ti je prednja viljuska OK, ne bi trebalo da imas previse problema sa uspes... Ja sam uvezbao za pola sata na MZu 251, sa ne bas najboljom prednjom gumom, em sto je tvrda, em balon od 80 ili 70... ne secam se vise.. a, da, imao sam tada oko 125kg....

Dobrodosla!!!